At least they gave us a snack...

So, I was scheduled to leave Beijing on Friday morning... all was running as planned. I woke up to a gray and much cooler morning than I had in nearly a week. I tossed my dirty clothes into my larger bag and gently layered my souvenirs and gifts in to a packable and expandable duffel bag that I brought with me. As best I could, I tried not to crush the fragile items. I checked out of the hotel as one of the staff members ran out to the main street to catch me a cab to the airport. The bus I took on the way in would have been cheaper but at this point of the trip, I was shorter on time than I had been a few days earlier. I asked the staff to request that the driver stop at the corner so I could squeeze in one last visit to a Chinese bakery; a treat that I guiltlessly allowed myself as often as necessary since my first 6am morning in Hong Kong nearly two weeks ago. With a $ 0.25 bag of pastries and a warm milk box (imagine a juice box) – that I in could not finish, (I can understand the whole “warm beverages are more easily digestible thing but, warm milk?) Anyway, I was off to the airport.

I had plenty of time to get checked in, push through airport security and find my gate. I was early so I found a seat and opened my book and tried to pay attention, as best I could, to the announcements (in Chinese mind you) and noted that after one particular announcement, there was a audible groan from my fellow passengers seated around me. You know the kind, it sort of sounds like the groans expelled when people realize that there flight has been delayed... yeah, that's the one. So, I left my bag at my seat and walked up to the departure gate attendant to confirm my suspicions. As I hawk-eyed my carry-on bag, I inquired about China Airlines flight CA 1109 to Hong Kong. without a beat the man behind the counter simply said “it's been delayed”. How long, I asked. “We don't know, he answered. Could be an hour, could be six, I inquired. “We don't know right now, we will make an announcement” was what I was able to decipher from our conversation. I checked on my baggage again and returned to my seat and back to my book. Normally, I would have been a been a bit frustrated, but I was still in vacation mode and I sort of shrugged it off. My connecting flight in Hong Kong wasn't until 10pm so I didn't have anything to worry about (so I thought), I had expected to spend the day in an airport anyway and it was only 12:45pm.

About an hour later two men with carts came in to my view. On the carts were ½ a dozen milk white boxes, like a common plastic storage box, stacked head high. From my seat, I could not tell what was in the boxes but as the second cart came in to view carrying crates of bottled water and coca-cola, I deduced that they must be bringing us a snack. I should have seen this as a clearer sign of what was to come, but I was distracted by my free meal of airline style Chinese noodles and pickled vegetables and therefore much less concerned by these events than I would have been back home. Outside The sky was gray and the fog was was thick. Visibility was close to nil.

By 4pm I had visited the man at the desk another time or two and was now starting to get concerned. I exited the secured boarding area, left my passport with a immigration officer and returned to the ticket counter to speak with my connecting airline about the increasing likelihood that I would miss my flight in Hong Kong. I could not locate a Singapore airlines counter so I had to make a phone call. This call was frustrating and unfruitful, the language barrier did not lessen this at all. I did manage to discover that Singapore Airlines has only 1 flight a day from Hong Kong and it leaves at 9:50pm. When I inquired about flying directly from Beijing to San Francisco I learned that If I wanted to pursue that as an option, I would have to fly to Singapore first and then to San Francisco thru Hong Kong. How's that for an alternative? Anyway, I spoke with a manager at the China Airlines desk and we agreed that the plane was not yet at the airport and by the time it landed, had been cleaned and we all boarded plus the flight time, “maybe” I would not make my connection. He was trying to be polite, but we both knew I was F*cked and I knew for sure that I was not going home that day.

By the time I landed in Hong Kong, made my way through customs and picked up my bag it was 11pm. I checked with the Customer Service desk hoping that perhaps the flight was delayed. In fact it did depart 25 minutes late but it had still departed without me. I stood in line with a group of folks who also missed their connecting flights and finally, around mid-night, confirmed a seat on the next night's flight to SF.

Now what, I've got about 22 Hours to kill and I'm in the Hong Kong airport, about 30 min. from Kowloon. Can you imagine spending all night and all day in an airport? Me neither. Conveniently there's a 4 star hotel right there in the airport. Could I afford to stay the night in the airport hotel, I asked myself. I was leaning towards sleeping in the terminal, but the idea of sleeping on the floor or sitting upright in a chair did not sound adventurous, it sounded dreadful. Somehow I remembered reading a document that suggested I had travel insurance through my credit card for tickets charged on it. So I loaded my Tmobile sim card in to my phone and called the 800 # on the back. I was able to get confirmation that “flights missed, canceled or otherwise interrupted” were qualifying events and that I was entitled to up to $1500 worth of reimbursable expenses. This was the best news I had received all day. With renewed enthusiasm toward how I would spend the next 20 + hours, I pushed my baggage cart to the hotel which is in fact connected to the main terminal via a causeway. At the desk, I learned that lucky for me they had a room. But there was a catch. The room rate was $430 US plus 13% service charge. Your Kidding me, I asked the clerk. I'm sorry sir this is the rate we have available, he replied faining an apologetic tone. I looked at my watch, 1:32 am, and lowered my head as I slid the card across the marble counter. We have a suite available, I could upgrade you, he said as swiped my card. OK, thanks, I said as I exhaled and began the process of winding down for the night.

I've never stayed at a $400/night hotel before so I didn't have much expectation except that it had better be nicer that a room with a bed and a TV... I was not disappointed. As I surveyed my temporary new digs, I discovered the suite had a living room and a bed room, each with a flat screen TV, a glass shower and a jacuzzi tub and a BOSE iPod sound system If I were checking out in the morning I would not have even cared much, a simple bed would have sufficed. However, since my flight was not until 10pm the next day (now – this day), the clerk authorized a late check out; I could stay until 6pm. Nice. Needless to say, I took full advantage of all the amenities, the tub, the sound system... I pretty much sat on every couch and chair in the place. I wanted to get my money's worth. In fact, this was working out to be not such a bad deal. Not getting home when expected sucked mind you, but this was working out to be quite a luxurious and restful layover. I was still in vacation mode.

6pm came and I checked out but not before I realized someone had eaten at the hotel cafe and charged a $50 tab to my room. I spent the next half hour trying to convince the clerk and manager that I not visited the cafe and that the charges needed to be removed. They even brought in the waitress from the day shift to verify whether I was the man she had served. Apparently, she told the manager that she did not recognize me and they finally removed the charge. One of the manager was still giving me the stink-eye however, I guess she thought I was getting one over on them. Whatever... I was heading home. I would arrive in San Francisco, 2 days after I had left my hotel in Beijing.

From Sports Cars to Fried Chicken...

I found Beijing a pleasant and friendly city, despite the sometimes aggressiveness of the street vendors and bar and nightclub touters, often grabbing you by the arm or tugging at your shirt “Hello, have a look... What do you like? I've encountered some aggressive street merchants in my days but I'll be placing those of Beijing atop the list, for now. I do understand their pleas... competition is tough. In most market places there are a hundred or so other vendors most selling very similar if not the same wares. Sometimes it can all make simply browsing the stalls quite awkward and the pressure to buy if you actually spot something of interest can be intense.

One thing I've notice from visiting China's three most populated and economically prosperous cities; there sure does seem to be a whole lot of capitalism going on. Hong Kong has it's high end retailers: Fendi, Armani, Gucci, etc, and any given day you're likely to spot a Ferrari, perhaps a few. Shanghai, has new restaurants and bars popping up all over town. Startbucks is in all three towns as is KFC, and of course the Golden Arches are ever present. You can even shop for a new Mercedes while you attend next year's Olympic games in Beijing. I don't really know what I expected to find, and I must admit I'm quite reacquainted with 7Eleven after this trip. I suppose I thought I would find more overt signs of communism here in China. Or, at the very least, fewer Starbucks and KFCs . But who doesn't like some fried chicken skin every now and again right? And those biscuits, come on.

China has been a warm (if not hot) and inviting country to visit. It sure has been an adventure. I definitely could not have had such a great time if were not for the friends, acquaintances, hotel staff, and strangers on the street who helped me get along, feel welcome and stay well fed. Xiexie (Thank you all!).

"Know when to Hold'em... "

Wondering around Beijing on foot is not for the weak of sole. The site of the 2008 Olympic Games is much more spread out than the previous two cities I have visited in China. While Beijing does offer public bus and subway service, I found that Taxi's were the most efficient way to get around the city with fares averaging around $1 - $3 us. Pretty reasonable for a mode of personal transport generally regarded as a luxury.

Over the past few days I visited a number of well known Tourist sites: White Cloud temple, Tianemen sq., the Forbidden Palace, and the Great Wall. I enjoyed walking on these ancient grounds. It was easy to get lost in my recurring daydream of contemplating daily life in Imperial China. What was it like then, would I have been a peasant or a soldier, or of some higher rank in the Emperors court. Would I have been the Supreme Ruler? Probable not. I'd wonder how old I would have been when I died? Would I have had a wife, children? These type of thoughts would flow in and out of my consciousness as I strolled (camera ready) through ancient courtyards and stumbled on the same stone pathways as millions of people before me and now doubt, millions after.

Mostly, I was attentive to my camera. At times, I became fixed on getting that elusive “perfect shot”. These photos are rare (in my experience) and many a day can be consumed searching, waiting, and contriving an image that one believes to be worthy of the pursuit. Perhaps the quest is the exciting part, it keeps me coming back... like winning a decent hand at Black Jack. We're not likely to walk away from the table satisfied that we won a “good” hand and then move on to another game or take in a show. No, most of us will want to stay and play-on. We like to ride it out and see if we can get better as we go. For many of us, the taste of something like a pretty-good shot or a winning hand keeps us in the game. Luckliy for me, I'm not much of a casino gambler. Though I must admit, in life, learning to “Know when to Hold'em and when to Fold'em” is not an easy lesson learned.

Key Travel Tip: GSM + local SIM...

Monday 10/22 I traveled to Beijing. I arrived in late afternoon without directions to my hotel, not a smart idea when you don't speak the local language. I guess I had been spoiled in Hong Kong where there's a bit more English spoken and in Shanghai where I had a westerner as my host. Anyway, I took the bus in to town but had no idea where to get off. So, I just followed the locals and got off where most of them did. Then I caught a taxi, the first refused to take me. Lucky for me, the second driver, with a quick phone call to the hotel (here's an absolutely key travel tip: use GSM phones when traveling abroad and buy a local SIM card when you land, you'll save tuns on roaming charges and have easy access to local numbers not to mentions you have a local number to give out when you meet other traveler's or locals, or simply get lost.) delivered me to my cozy Beijing digs, where I'd stay the remainder of my nights in China, before heading home that Friday. At least that was the plan.

The Tianxiang hotel, is an old courtyard style home and a protected cultural heritage site. The hotel grounds has three separate beautifully decorated traditional courtyards with rooms and suites located around each central yard. The I found this style of hotel by accident when looking for alternative to standard western rooms. When I was in Tokyo a few years back , I stayed at a traditional Japanese Ryokan (complete with tea set and sliding Shoji doors and evening futon turn down service), I enjoyed it so much that I thought I'd look for something comparable in Beijing. I am quite happy with my stay at Tianxiang. In the mornings I'd wake to birds chirping from their hanging cages near my window and in the evenings I'd wind down each day's adventure with a tall TsingTao (approx: 3.50 Yuan = .50 us) while sitting in the dimly lit courtyard until dinner time rolled around.

Hot Pot is King...

Shanghai has been such an amazing city. Over the years I have visited a number of great cities and have had epic adventures in all, London, Bangkok, Tokyo, Amsterdam... but there's definitely something special about Shanghai.

Perhaps this morning I'm feeling a bit pre-nostalgic simply because Shanghai is here and now... maybe it's the amazing food ( I had a very special treat to a local style Hairy Crab dinner the other night, I was accompanied by 2 Shanghainese women and a friend of their's from Mexico. The crab was delicious and the company exceptional. - I forgot to take any pictures though. Obviously, my attentions were elsewhere). Maybe it's the people who have been so kind and helpful and generous of spirit that have helped generate such fond feelings for this expansive and densely populated city. Could it be that Shanghai feels a bit like home? There are many similarities between the two: congested roads shared by autos, cyclists, and pedestrians, mixed cultures eastern and western, landmark architecture (Shanghai has definitely got us there), a conscious effort to stay in the city, and thrive in the city – by so many of us. Likely it's all of that and more.

A great host has also played a key role in my successfully enjoying this time in Shanghai. I could not have gotten along so well and with such ease were it not for the efforts of my host. For that I am most grateful.

Here are a few random shots from around the city.

Just in case you were'nt sure if that
would be a good thing to do.

The ever popular Mahjong





Communist era bric-a-brac









Local fruit vendors. I'm sure we'll see this
look in Milan and Paris this fall.





Mmm, Street food.





???





An evening at Barbarosa




Yuyuen Garden

Move it or lose it...

Shanghai is definitely a happening city. With over 18 million inhabitants it's one of China's most populous cities. The food is great, in fact quite exceptional and the nightlife leaves San Francisco watering holes back about 30 years, but we can get in to that later.

Getting around town is actually quite exciting here. Between the cars, taxis, scooters, and bicyclists, crossing the street can be an and adventure in to itself. Shanghainese don't stop for anyone of thing. If there's an obstacle, they will just go around... or simply run into you or it. This goes for buses, cars, cyclists (motored, electric, or manual). As a pedestrian especially, there's no right of way. It's not at all like back home where motorists wait patiently behind each other for there turn to move. There are so many people out on the streets that if you don't “rush it” than you will (as a westerner or low wai) just sit there and not i get anywhere.

Convenience store lines and subway cars are even worse. You've got to stay on your game here. I was next in line at the counter the other day, money in hand passing my goods to the clerk and someone just popped in from the side, right in front of me, handed their money to the clerk and the clerk severed them, with out a thought. I was thinking to my self, what the %^$* was that. As I looked over to my friend with confusion, he just smiled and said “you'd better get in there.” So, I threw an elbow to the little old lady who tried to rush me from the other side, paid for my milk tea and squeezed out of there will a clearer understanding why riding the bus though China town (back home) can sometimes feel like a rugby scrum. Just kidding about the elbow mom. :)

And they're off.....

I stepped out to the Happy Valley Race Course in Hong Kong on Sunday. It was to be my fist day at the races... I had checked the web site the night before to confirm the starting time... and took a cab out to the track after a leisurely stroll though Hong Kong park. I showed up and low and behold it was "expat" day. which meant that for 25 HK dollars ($3 us), I was granted access to the members betting area and seating and supposedly access to the riders and stable area. Hmm, that sounds cool, right?

I get out in to the stands and the place is quite full. There's a beer tent and a hot food tent, sweet I think to myself. As I look around and everyone seems to be focused on there race papers, a listing of the horses that will run that day and what their stats are. I look up at the big monitor in the field and see the horses warming up and a score board of the last race and its pay-outs. It all feels pretty authentic. Something does seem to be missing though but I can't yet put my finger on it. The score board informs me that it's about 6 minutes to the next race (#7). As I'm drinking my beer and looking at my race sheet (a photo copied English version of the day's program), I begin to make some sense of the stats; this horse has won before in a similar race, that horse has placed but never won, etc. So I pick, in my mind, a top choice. I check the jumbo-tron while sipping my frosty cold adult beverage and think to myself, I've got this, why don't I place a bet? Nothing large (just in case I'm way off) but something to get the feeling.
Inside, at the betting counter I realize that I don't know how to place a bet. So, I ask the girl at the information counter and she helps me fill out the wager card. 10 HK dollars ($1.50 us) on "One World" to Win, in the 7th. Sounds like I know what I'm doing huh? The race clocks continues to count down meanwhile 1 min, 0 min... I anxiously get my bet in just be fore start and step back out track side to watch the ponies” as they say.


The race begins and I start grinning as the excitements builds. The chatter track side is loud and emotional. There's an obvious buzz in the air. Up on the screen I follow my horse as he's making his way up from a few places back. I start to get concerned though. I've not seen any horses. I can see them running on the screen, but I can't actually hear of see them anywhere. One World continues his quest and edges up from second to win the race by at a least a neck length. Sweet, I've just won my first bet on a horse race. I kinda' like this feeling. But, still no horses. What's up with that? As I return to the betting window to collect my newly acquired fortune, I ask the clerk and find out that they are racing today, just not here. They're racing at the “other” hong kong race course, up in the new territories, (about an hour from this course). What? I can't believe all these folks are out here, the beer garden, “expat” day... and there's no race actually happening at this location.

Wow, I guess the Hong Kongese really enjoy horse racing. So, I had some beef curry with rice and another beer and as the next race started I took off back towards the hotel. Overall, I had a great time, my pay out was 3 – 1 about $4 us and I was only slightly disappointed that I was that the wrong course. I'd go again I suppose, If I do, I think I'll up my bet to at least $2.50.

Nei ho ma?

That's all the Chinese I know. it's barely getting me by. My pointing and smilling skill are sharp though. I'm like some sort of supper happy freak who's keeps bowing as if i'm in thailand or japan... There all use to this here. So, I didn't get much done yesterday (1st day) took me a while to get everything in order. I'm staying at the Bridal Tea House Hotel in Kowloon. It's a nice. clean place with helpful staff. the room is small but adequate. I didn't come all this way for the hotel room anyway. I did make it up to Victoria Peak yesterday. The Peak Tram takes you up through Hong Kong's mid-level communities at about a 45 degree angle. you can feel your body pressing against the wooden benches, firmly. The views are truly stunning. Even though it was over cast the breeze at the top kept the temp and humidity at a comfortable level. BTW, it's freakin' humid. like a warm body wrap or a hug that lasts all day. Mmmmm. I did run in to a familiar face though... the Peak terrace has a mall and shopping plaza and even a Madame Tussuad's wax museum. It's all sort of Fisherma's Warf but it was nice to run in to Bruce, which made it all a bit more tolerable. Today's another adventure.

I'm packed and headed to the airport...

... soon as I finish this beer, that is. I had to work today. Whatever, right, so did everyone else. I just couldn't focus though. I kept getting up and finding folks to chat with about traveling and getting advise on things to see in Hong Kong, and where to shop Shanghai, and where to eat.... I was lovin' it. It's was as if I'd already left. Sweet.
Mentally, I left about a month ago, but my reality keeps waking from my cerebral sojourn with the always unpleasant "Ent!, ent!, ent!, ent!..." of the alarm clock and as my restless nights begin each new day with this incessant reminder that in fact, I've gone no where. I am here, in SF and it's time for work. Damn! this sucks.
That's all sort of back story I guess. Looking forward I'm heading off on a journey of a life time. I'm starting in Hong Kong, then to Shanghai, and finally, I'll sip me some tea in Beijing. Two weeks off, and no alarm clocks, er. wait... I packed an alarm clock. Shit! I might have to re-pack.

86 hours, 14minutes, 23 seconds and counting...

I begin my latest journey in just a few short days. Actually, it began about six months ago when I started planning this trip. I've decided to visit a good friend who is living in Shanghai, China. Turns out the time is now, he will only be in China for a few more months. If I wait any longer, my opportunity to visit and get an ex-pat's local tour will have expired. Now, I could go to China any time, right? But, there's something just a bit more special about visiting friends in far off places. Besides, this is what it's all about... traveling the world meeting new people, seeing new places, eating street foods you never expected to, and some you wished you hadn't. This is why I do, whatever the hell it is I do.... so that I can get out and see the world; on my own time, and my own dime.